For laminating and coating, choose CLR Clear Laminating Resin, BRT Optically Brightened Laminating Resin, or ONE High-Biobased Laminating Resin.
There are three Entropy Resin systems we recommend for fiberglass lamination and thin coatings at room temperature: BRT, CLR, and ONE with their corresponding hardeners. The resin and hardener you select will be based on whether you are laminating glass cloth, applying a clear coat or seal coat, or hot coating. Ideal working temperature with all hardeners is 70°F – 85°F.
For a clear casting project like this colorful pyramid, choose CCR - Clear Casting Resin.
Select CCR Clear Casting Epoxy thick coatings (greater than 1/4”) or for casting. CCR has two compatible hardeners, CCF Fast Hardener and CCS Slow Hardener, that vary the cure speed. We recommend CCS for larger casting thicknesses/volumes and CCF for smaller volumes.
For compression molding, which is popular among ski and skateboard makers, choose CPM.
CPM is a compression molding epoxy system for fast cycle times in heat-assisted molding processes of fiber-reinforced composites. The CPM system delivers a high bio-content, excellent fiber wetting qualities, and thixotropic characteristics to limit sag in high-temperature cure applications. A high modulus combined with excellent elongation properties enable durable yet lightweight composite parts. CMP is a USDA Certified Biopreferred® Product with 30% biobased content.
Interested in learning more about Entropy Resins, click here to learn more about the benefits of using eco-friendly resins on your next DIY Surfboard project.
]]>Working with epoxy can be fun, satisfying, and safe as long as you follow a few precautions.
This article will cover several common shop hazards of working with Entropy Resins epoxy products. Use these common-sense practices to ensure your safety, productivity, and enjoyment in the unique and wonderful things you can create with Entropy Resins.
It begins by following the directions and heeding the warnings on Entropy product labels. Entropy Safety Data Sheets English and Safety Data Sheets French are a great resource for detailed epoxy safety information.
Most substances have a safe level of exposure. The more toxic a substance, the less it takes to reach its overexposure threshold. Exceeding safe exposure levels can cause health problems. Your immune system and overall health can also affect your tolerance of a substance.
When formulating the epoxy resins and hardeners in the Entropy Resins product line, we go for the best physical properties possible with the lowest risk to people and the planet. This keeps the proportion of hazardous ingredients in Entropy products small enough that, with good work habits, you can easily avoid overexposure.
Hazardous substances can enter the body by being absorbed through the skin, inhaled, or ingested. The usual route for a given substance depends on its physical characteristics and how it is normally used.
Exposure to resin, hardener, and mixed epoxy is more likely when they are in liquid form. As epoxy cures, its chemical ingredients react to form a non-hazardous solid. Solidified epoxy is unlikely to enter the body except in the form of sanding dust, which we’ll discuss shortly.
Skin contact is the most common route of exposure to resins and hardeners. Even minor skin contact, repeated often, can cause chronic health problems. In rare cases, with prolonged or repeated skin contact, harmful ingredients may be absorbed.
Exposure by inhaling vapours is unlikely because epoxy products evaporate slowly. But this risk increases when you are working in a small or confined workspace, don’t have good ventilation in your workspace, or if you’re heating the epoxy.
If heating Epoxy resins prior to usage, remember to heat the Epoxy bottle only. You do not want to heat up Hardener.
The most efficient approach to heating resin is the use of a water bath. The water should be no warmer than 35 degrees Celsius. This provides the best heat transfer to the crystallized resin and reduces the risk of damaging the container. Where a water bath is not practical, such as in drum or tote sizes, other heating techniques may be used, such as drum band heaters that blending the resin continually and carefully monitor the temperature.
Regardless of the heating method you choose, exposing the resin to temperatures above the recommended 35°C can lead to adverse effects such as discoloration.
Warming of resins prior to mixing and application will ensure consistency in the viscosity and improve the lamination wet-out of reinforcement fabrics.
People rarely ingest epoxy, but it can happen when resin, hardener or mixed epoxy contaminate food, beverages or eating surfaces.
When you sand partially cured epoxy, it produces airborne dust that can get on your skin, be inhaled or even ingested. Although epoxy may be firm enough to sand within a few hours, it may not cure completely for up to two weeks. Until then, the epoxy dust can contain unreacted hazardous components. Never overlook or underestimate this sanding hazard.
Let’s explore the most common health problems stemming from epoxy use. Nearly all of us can prevent these issues. Even those who do develop a health problem can usually resume using epoxy with additional precautions.
You can become sensitized to epoxy after many exposures or just one. Some people get sensitized over a matter of days. For others, it can take years. The best approach is to avoid all exposure because there is no way to predict how much exposure you can take before becoming allergic.
Allergic reactions to epoxy result in skin irritation or respiratory problems. Irritated skin is by far the more common reaction. It usually looks like poison ivy and may include swelling, itching, and red eyes. The symptoms can range from mild to severe and be acute or chronic.
Inhaling epoxy vapours frequently or for long periods can irritate your respiratory tract. Sensitive skin areas like the eyelids may itch and swell after exposure to highly concentrated epoxy vapours.
See your doctor if irritation persists or worsens after avoiding epoxy for several days. There is no antidote for epoxy sensitization, but some symptoms can be treated with medicine.
Once you’ve become sensitized, additional (and sometimes increasingly severe) reactions are more likely with future exposures, even to tiny amounts of epoxy. It’s difficult, but not impossible, to prevent recurrences. Don’t resume epoxy use until all symptoms are gone. Strictly follow all handling procedures. Review the product Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for preventative measures, symptoms, and first aid.
By themselves, Entropy epoxy hardeners are moderately corrosive. Hardener burns are uncommon, and burns from mixed epoxy are even less common. Left in contact with skin, hardener can severely irritate it and cause moderate chemical burns. These develop gradually, beginning with irritation and slight pain. The burn may discolour skin or slightly scar it. The time it takes for epoxy hardener to burn the skin depends on the skin area and the hardener concentration. Mixing resin with hardener dilutes the hardener, making it less corrosive. Although mixed epoxy is less corrosive, never leave it on your skin as it cures rapidly and is hard to remove.
Breathing highly concentrated epoxy vapour risks respiratory irritation and sensitization. Epoxy vapours aren’t likely to be highly concentrated at room temperatures. But if you’re already sensitized to epoxy, exposure to low vapour concentrations can trigger an allergic reaction. At warmer temperatures and in unventilated spaces, epoxy vapour levels increase.
Sanding epoxy before it has fully cured can cause serious health problems. Epoxy chemicals remain reactive until they have cured, and when inhaled, these particles get trapped in the mucus lining of your respiratory system where they can cause severe irritation and/or respiratory allergies.
If you’re a smoker or your lungs are already strained, you’re far more likely to develop serious respiratory problems from epoxy.
Resin should always be stored indoors and off the ground (not on concrete or tiled basement/shop floor), ideally in a temperature-controlled environment. For extended shelf-life, resin and hardener must always be kept above freezing – optimal working and storage temperatures of Epoxy and Hardeners is 20 – 30 degrees Celsius. If you live in a colder climate, storage of epoxy and hardeners is not recommended in a garage unless it’s temperature controlled.
If the temperature in your workspace is difficult to control, consider building a warm resin station or temperature-controlled cabinet for the storage of your resins. This will help you to meet the manufacturer’s advertised pot-life and tack-free times while ensuring consistent kicks.
These guidelines address both industrial and casual epoxy use. If followed, they’ll protect you from epoxy and other hazardous materials.
Use the least hazardous product that will do the job. This reduces or even eliminates hazard sources.
Set up a safe shop. Install equipment and follow procedures that prevent or reduce exposure. This includes effective ventilation, which, depending on your workshop, can range from high-tech air-filtration and exhaust systems to basic floor or window fans. This can address a wide range of vapours and dust. A dedicated cabinet or isolated area for storing hazardous materials can also reduce exposure.
Wear goggles, safety glasses, gloves, a respirator, and protective clothing appropriate for the project. The bare minimum for working with epoxy is gloves, eye protection, and protective clothing. You can protect yourself from epoxy vapours by using a respirator with an organic vapour cartridge. The approved respiratory protection against epoxy dust, wood dust, and nuisance dust is a dust/mist mask or respirator.
The US government hasn’t established exposure limits for Entropy Resins epoxy products. Entropy guidelines are based on the levels approved for the raw materials used in these formulations, as shown in each product’s SDS.
There is no such thing as NO VOCs! All epoxies, resins and polyesters emit VOCs. In fact, VOCs are quite prevalent.
The definition reads: Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) are organic chemicals that have a high vapour pressure at room temperature. VOCs are numerous, varied, and ubiquitous. They include both man-made and naturally occurring chemical compounds. They are emitted from natural and man-made environments, including from wood glue, baby blankets, and most scents and odours.
However, the question applies to the issue that some VOCs are dangerous to human health or can cause harm to the environment. Harmful VOCs typically are not acutely toxic but have compounding long-term health effects. This is why it is a good thing to minimize your harmful VOC exposure whenever possible and why having the lowest VOC resin is important.
Our Entropy Resins (CCR, CCS) have a VOC output at less than 0.79% of volume. This being the lowest VOC output we could find amongst other resins. In comparison, other resins and polyesters have a VOC output of 10% by volume or more.
As a consumer, the question one should ask is, what is your VOC emission factor once we have mixed epoxy and hardener. Swell publishes our VOC output on our TDS cards. Email or call us for further detail on our testing results.
Avoid contact with resin, hardeners, mixed epoxy, and sanding dust from partially cured epoxy. Wear protective gloves and clothing whenever you handle epoxies. If you get resin, hardener or mixed epoxy on your skin, remove it immediately. Resin is not water-soluble―use a waterless skin cleanser to remove resin or mixed epoxy from your skin. Hardener is water-soluble―wash with soap and warm water to remove hardener or sanding dust from your skin.
Always wash thoroughly with soap and warm water after working with epoxy, including sanding.
If you get epoxy on your clothes, change them immediately. Use skin cleaners to remove any epoxy from your skin and clothing. Do not continue to wear clothing with epoxy on it. If it’s mixed epoxy, you can wear the item again once the epoxy has fully cured.
Never use solvents to remove epoxy from your skin. Solvents, even mild ones like vinegar, can drive the epoxy’s ingredients into your skin, making overexposure more likely.
Stop using epoxy if you develop a reaction. Resume work only after symptoms disappear, usually after several days. When you resume work, improve your epoxy safety precautions to prevent overexposure to epoxy, its vapours, and sanding dust. If problems persist, discontinue use and see your doctor.
Wear safety glasses or goggles to protect your eyes from contact with resin, hardeners, mixed epoxy, and sanding dust.
If you get epoxy in your eyes, flush them immediately with water under low pressure for 15 minutes. Seek medical attention.
Avoid breathing epoxy vapours and sanding dust. Entropy Epoxies have low volatile organic content (VOC), but vapours can still accumulate in unvented spaces. Provide ample ventilation in small workshops or other confined spaces.
When you can’t adequately ventilate your workspace, wear an approved respirator with an organic vapour cartridge.
When sanding epoxy―especially partially cured epoxy―provide ventilation and wear a dust/mist mask or respirator. Breathing partially cured epoxy dust increases your risk of sensitization. Even when the epoxy has cured to a sandable solid, a complete cure may require over two weeks at room temperature.
After handling epoxy, wash thoroughly, especially before you eat or smoke.
If you swallow epoxy, drink large quantities of water―DO NOT induce vomiting. Hardeners are corrosive and can cause additional harm if vomited. Call a doctor or contact Poison Control immediately. Refer to First Aid procedures on the products SDS.
Maintain a clean workshop to avoid incidental contact with the epoxy. If you have epoxy residue on your gloves, don’t touch door handles, light switches, or epoxy containers because you’ll probably touch them again when you’re not wearing gloves.
Puncture a corner of the resin or hardener can and drain the residue into a new container.
Do not dispose of resin or hardener as liquids. Mix small quantities of waste resin and hardener and allow them to cure to an inert solid.
CAUTION! Pots of curing epoxy can get hot enough to emit hazardous fumes and ignite combustible materials nearby. Place pots of mixed epoxy in a safe and ventilated area, away from any combustible materials. Dispose of the solid epoxy mass only after it has completely cured and cooled. Follow federal, state or local disposal regulations.
Epoxy cures by an exothermic chemical reaction that generates heat. Left to cure in a contained mass, such as a mixing pot, epoxy can get hot enough to melt plastic, burn your skin, or ignite combustible materials nearby. The larger or thicker an epoxy mass, the more heat it generates. A 100-gram mass of mixed epoxy can reach 400-degrees.
To prevent heat buildup, pour mixed resin and hardener from the mixing pot into a roller pan or other wide, shallow container. Fill large cavities with epoxy in multiple layers rather than a single, thick layer. Heat buildup and uncontrolled curing are unlikely in bonding and coating jobs because spreading the epoxy into thinner layers dissipates heat.
Mixed resin and hardener become hot and frothy as they thermally decompose, generating toxic vapours, including carbon monoxide, oxides of nitrogen, ammonia, and possibly some aldehydes. Cured epoxy can emit these vapours when overheated, such as when using a flame to release a casted or embedded object. Use a flame to do this only as a last resort, and work in a well-ventilated area.
While leftover mixed epoxy is curing, set the container aside where you can monitor it. Use a fan to disperse vapours, directing them away from people. Air-purifying respirators may not be adequate for these vapours and fumes.
Combining hardeners with sawdust, wood chips, or other cellulose can cause a fire. When hardener is spilled onto or mixed with sawdust, the air and moisture react with the amine, generating heat. If not dissipated quickly, this can ignite the sawdust. Never use sawdust or other types of cellulose to absorb a hardener spill. Do not pour unused hardener into a trash can with sawdust or other cellulose materials.
Entropy Resins epoxy resins and hardeners are classified as non-flammable because their flash points are greater than 200°F and they evaporate slowly. Furnaces, wood stoves, and other heat sources do not pose a serious fire hazard in the presence of epoxy vapours.
The health and safety risks of spraying epoxy are enormous, and we never recommend it. Epoxy leaving a spray gun nozzle is reduced to a fine mist that is easily inhaled. This can cause serious lung damage and other health problems. This mist can settle on your skin, causing sensitization and allergic reaction. It can settle on your eyes, injuring them.
Spraying increases the amount of hazardous volatile components released compared to other application methods. Thinning the epoxy with solvents adds to health and safety risks. The health and flammability hazards are similar to any spray painting operation. If you must spray epoxy, control hazardous vapour and spray mist with isolation and enclosure such as a ventilated and filtered spray booth. Always use an air-supplied respirator and full-body protective clothing.
Use these guidelines for disposing of unused resin and hardener:
The disposal guidelines above may not comply with the laws and regulations in your area. Always refer to your local, state and federal regulations.
Your health and safety are in your hands. Staying informed about the products you use and following basic health and shop safety practices will protect your health and safety while using Entropy Resins epoxy products.
(References: Epoxy Safety)
If you have any technical questions about your resin project call our helpline 310-882-2120. The helpline is staffed by Composite Material Engineers ready to walk you through any project . If you have questions about stock or shipping email or call us.
Entropy Resins has the highest
*(BC) Bio-content
of any resin in Canada.
Why is (BC) & (MBBC) important?
Careful measuring and thorough mixing of epoxy resin and hardener are essential for the epoxy to cure properly. Whether you’re applying the epoxy mixture to wet out fibreglass, as a coating, or a casting, the following steps will ensure a controlled and thorough chemical transition to a high-strength epoxy solid.
Ensure you are always starting with clean cups and brushes to avoid any dirt or debris from falling into the resin mixture. Next, dispense the resin and hardener into a clean plastic, metal, or wax-free paper container. Don’t use glass or foam containers because of the danger of exothermic heat buildup. Do not adjust the epoxy cure time by altering the mix ratio. An accurate ratio is essential for epoxy to fully cure and develop its physical properties.
For this demonstration, we are using our Super SAP CLR epoxy resin system from Entropy Resins. All of their retail formulas are two-part epoxy systems made up of a resin (Part A) and a hardener (Part B).
As with all epoxy resins, our systems are designed to work in a specific mix ratio between the two parts. Our CLR epoxy resin with CLF Fast Hardener works in a 100:47 mix ratio by weight or a 2:1 volume ratio.
The steps to measure by weight or volume differ slightly:
Now you are ready to mix. When measuring by weight or volume (without pumps), you’ll need to measure Entropy resins and hardeners by weight or volume to achieve the correct ratio of 2-parts resin to 1-part hardener:
Here are the steps to mix the resin
Here are the steps and tips for dispensing your mixed resin:
Resin and hardener dispensed at the wrong ratio is the source of most cure-related problems. To simplify dispensing and reduce the possibility of errors, use Entropy Pumps to meter the correct ratio of resin to hardener.
Pump two full pump strokes of resin for each full pump stroke of hardener. Depress each pump head fully and allow the head to rise completely back to the top before beginning the next stroke. Partial strokes will give the wrong ratio. Read the pump instructions before using the pumps.
Before you use the first pump-dispensed mixture on a project, verify the pumps are delivering the correct ratio by following the calibration process on the pump instructions. Recheck the ratio anytime you experience problems with curing.
For good secondary (mechanical) adhesion, bonding surfaces should be clean, dry, and sanded.
Primary, or chemical, bonds occur when you apply fresh epoxy over partially cured epoxy. Primary bonding relies on the chemical bonding of epoxy layers where resin and hardener molecules from the previous layer are still reacting and can therefore chemically react with the next epoxy layer. This allows all the epoxy layers to cure together and fuse into a single layer.No surface prep is needed when applying fresh epoxy over partially cured epoxy. But after an epoxy application cures, the window for chemical linking closes. At this point, you’ll need to prepare the surface for subsequent epoxy coats.
Secondary or mechanical bonds occur when you first apply epoxy to a substrate or apply subsequent coats over an epoxy coating that has fully cured. Secondary bonds rely on the epoxy’s ability to “key” into pores or scratches on the surface, so these bonds are mechanical in nature.
When you properly prepare the surface for a secondary (mechanical) bond, it needs to be clean and textured. This allows for good adhesion.
Sometimes you don’t want the epoxy to bond to a certain surface, such as a mould surface. Materials/substrates the epoxy does not adhere to are: clear cellophane tape, thin plastic film 3 to 5 mils, polyethylene plastic, and polypropylene plastic. You can also use mould release agents like paste wax, chemical release, and PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) to prevent bonding. To verify that the epoxy will release from the surface, we recommend trying it on a test area.
Amine blush is a by-product of the epoxy curing process. This wax-like film may start to form during the tack-free stage of the initial cure phase. The blush is water-soluble and easy to remove but can clog sandpaper and inhibit subsequent bonding if not removed.
Simply wash the surface with clean water and an abrasive pad. We recommend 3-M Scotch-Brite™ 7447 General Purpose Hand Pads. Dry the surface with plain white paper towels to remove the dissolved blush before it dries on the surface. After you wash it with the abrasive pad, the surface should appear dull. Sand any remaining glossy areas with 80-grit sandpaper. Wet-sanding will also remove the amine blush.
The mixing of resin and hardener begins a chemical reaction that transforms the combined liquid into a solid. This period of transformation is called the cure time. As it cures, epoxy passes from the liquid state through a gel state before it reaches a solid state (Figure 1).
As it cures, mixed epoxy passes from a liquid state, through a gel state, to a solid-state. Cure time is shorter when the epoxy is warmer and longer when the epoxy is cooler.
Here are some terms you may see in curing instructions or packaging:
Here’s what you need to know about curing and cleaning up epoxy projects:
The temperature will affect curing times. The cooler the temperature of curing epoxy, the slower it cures. Three things contribute to epoxy’s temperature:
To adapt to warmer temperatures, use a slower hardener to increase or maintain your open time. You can also mix smaller batches and use them up quickly. Or pour the epoxy mixture into a container with greater surface area (such as a roller pan) to allow exothermic heat to dissipate, extending open time. The sooner the mixture is transferred or applied (after thorough mixing), the longer the mixture is available for coating, lay-up, or assembly.
To adapt to cooler temperatures, use a faster hardener or use supplemental heat to raise the epoxy temperature above the hardener’s minimum recommended application temperature. Use a hot air gun, a heat lamp, or another heat source to warm the resin – before mixing or after the epoxy is applied. Do not heat hardeners prior to mixing with resins. You can speed the epoxy cure time by applying supplemental heat to the curing epoxy.
The most important thing to consider when choosing a finish coating is protecting the epoxy from sunlight. Long-term UV protection depends on how well the finish coating retains its UV filters or pigments over the epoxy coating. A high-gloss finish reflects a higher proportion of the light hitting the surface than a dull surface. All other things being equal, a white (especially a glossy white) coating will last the longest.
Coating Compatibility : Most types of coatings are compatible with epoxy. Thoroughly cured epoxy is an almost completely inert, hard plastic. Most paint solvents will not soften, swell, or react with it. Epoxy amines can affect one-part polyurethanes and polyester gelcoat. If you’re using these, apply them after the epoxy is thoroughly cured, generally after two weeks at room temperature and after removing amine blush.
Elevated temperature post-curing will achieve a thorough cure much quicker. Post curing can also improve epoxy’s thermal properties and is recommended if you plan to apply dark paint over epoxy.
Now you are ready to use your resin. Remember to check the safe use guides, safe handling information and technical data sheets that come with your epoxy system before mixing. For more information about the resins carried by Swell, browse our product catalogue for sea , snow, wood, and art projects.
]]>When applying fiberglass or carbon fiber with laminating resins via wet layup, several techniques can be used depending upon the weight of your fabric. We’ll describe best practices for applying fiberglass and carbon fiber based on your fabric weight.
Lightweight (4 – 6 oz.) fiberglass cloth, popular in surfboard laminations, is easy to wet out from the top. It will become transparent when fully wet out with Entropy Resins epoxy.
Heavier weight fabrics (12 oz or more) are more difficult to wet out from one side. Best practice for wet layup of heavyweight fabrics is to apply epoxy to the surface first to ensure the fabric wets out on both sides.
This is a popular method for laminating surfboards.
Surfboard glassing tutorial with Christopher Clark from Shaper Studios. Using Entropy Resins Super Sap epoxy resin and Marko recycled EPS blank.
Clear coating or seal coating with epoxy involves applying a thin, even coat over a properly prepared substrate and then re-coating when the previous coat becomes tacky.
Apply second and subsequent clear coats of epoxy following the same procedures. Re-coat when the previous coat is still tacky (about as tacky as masking tape) to avoid sanding between coats.
Entropy Resins’ coating and laminating epoxies are Super Sap® Formulations. Designed for versatility, they can be used in a wide range of applications from laminating fiber-reinforced composites to thin film coatings. Featuring simple 2:1 mix ratios and a variety of cure speeds, they are engineered for ease of use. Superior strength, excellent adhesion to many surfaces, industry-leading clarity, and UV epoxy stability make these epoxies the right choice for coating and laminating projects.
Interested in learning more about Entropy Resins, click here to learn more about the benefits of using eco-friendly resins on your next DIY Surfboard project.
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In this step-by-step guide, we are going to break down the steps, of how to laminate a wooden surfboard with epoxy resin, outline in the above video. In this tutorial, we will be using the CLR epoxy resin system with Fast Hardener from Entropy Resins.
Before beginning any laminating project, you have to know how to mix and handle your epoxy resin. Check out our epoxy mixing and handling tutorial here for best practices in epoxy resin use and safety.
Now we're ready to laminate a wooden surfboard with epoxy resin.
Again, if this is your first time or you need a refresher, we highly recommend checking out our mixing and handling tutorial. Click here to check out our tutorial on best practices in measuring and proper mixing technique when using Entropy Resin systems.
A properly laminated board should look completely wet out, with the texture of the fiberglass visible, and not too many shiny puddles of resin left behind.
When you laminate a wooden surfboard with epoxy resin, you may get holes in the wood grain that can sometimes pull in resin. This leaves behind air bubbles that get trapped under the fiberglass. In these cases, be sure to backfill any air bubbles with resin before the lamination is set.
At 72 degrees Fahrenheit, Entropy Resins’ CLR resin with Fast Hardener will usually have a tack free time of 3 to 3.5 hours.
If you want to learn about hot coating using Entropy Resins' Super Sap CLR check out this video
Interested in learning more about Entropy Resins, click here to learn more about the benefits of using eco-friendly resins on your next DIY Surfboard project.
]]>Wooden surfboard laminating and hot coating using Entropy Resins’ Super Sap CLR epoxy resin over a Grain Surfboard
Hot-coating is the application of a thin layer of epoxy over the lamination to provide a smooth surface final surface. Because surfboard hot coats are sanded to achieve their final finish they must be thick enough so as to not damage the underlying fiberglass in the lamination layer. As such, fill coating can be applied after a wet layup lamination to help fill the texture of the cloth and provide a smoother surface on which to hot coat. Fill coats are commonly applied when the lamination surface has gelled but is still tacky. This allows for the fill coat to better adhere to the lamination surface and hold in place.
Learn more about applying fiberglass.
Interested in learning more about Entropy Resins, click here to learn more about the benefits of using eco-friendly resins on your next DIY Surfboard project.
]]>Before coating or casting epoxy over bare wood, heat the wood and apply the epoxy while the wood is cooling. During cooling, the air in the wood contracts, drawing the epoxy in. The opposite happens if you coat wood as it’s warming (such as in the morning, in the sunlight, near a heater or anytime ambient temperatures are rising). Warmth makes the air in the wood expand, resulting in bubbles in the curing coating or casting.
An effective way to coat vertical surfaces with epoxy and prevent bubbles is the roll and tip method. Roll the epoxy on with a thin nap foam roller, then “tip” by dragging another section of roller or foam brush across the surface to smooth the epoxy layer.
This is the best method for casting items in a clear coat of epoxy. The fewest bubbles result if epoxy is poured from the bottom of a container, through a puncture. The bubbles in the mixed epoxy will naturally rise to the top of the container while bubble-free epoxy pours from the bottom and into the casting area. Learn more about casting epoxy.
Using a vacuum degassing chamber is an effective way to remove entrapped air bubbles from Entropy CCR epoxy. Degassing is most effective when using CCR Resin and CCS Slow Hardener because of its long pot life. You should maintain a vacuum pressure of at least 25 inches of mercury (Hg) for 5- 10 minutes to remove air bubbles. The volume of epoxy used will have an effect on the epoxy’s overall exothermic heat, so time under vacuum may need to be modified for your epoxy casting. A variety of different size vacuum chambers are available online, we recommend using one with a clear lid to see the air bubbles rise to the top of the epoxy. Degassing will help remove extremely small bubbles that can be difficult to remove unless a vacuum chamber is used.
This method has been used for years by our technical advisors. Not only is it effective for removing air bubbles from the surface; it also lowers the viscosity of the surface and flattens it out a bit. Be very careful when using this technique because leaving the flame over one spot for too long could cause bubbles to appear. We don’t recommend using a propane torch over bare wood.Doing so may cause the wood to release air into the epoxy layer.
To flame treat an epoxy coating, hold a propane torch so the flame is about 2-3 inches above the epoxy and move it across the surface at a rate of 12 to 16 inches per second. Keep the torch moving and overlap the previous pass slightly. When done correctly, the surface will not discolor or burn in any way. This technique can be done after you apply the epoxy, but before it becomes tacky.
Spraying a fine mist of denatured alcohol over the surface will pop air bubbles as well as lower the viscosity of the surface and flatten it out. There is little risk in this method because denatured alcohol evaporates fairly quickly and does not cause air bubbles to propagate. A fine mist is essential; if the droplets of denatured alcohol are similar in size the surface will cure with small cavities on it.
It’s not so easy to remove bubbles once the epoxy has cured, especially with casting projects. But bubbles near on the surface can be sanded open once the epoxy has cured completely. (Never sand partially cured or “green” epoxy.) Remove the resulting pinholes on the surface of the epoxy by using a stiff plastic or metal spreader to apply more epoxy. Hold the spreader at a low angle to avoid scraping away epoxy. Press the spreader firmly against the surface and drag the spreader in long, overlapping strokes to “hydraulically” force the epoxy into the pinholes. Fill the pinholes in each batch area before applying the next batch of epoxy.
Interested in learning more about Entropy Resins, click here to learn more about the benefits of using eco-friendly resins on your next DIY Surfboard project.
]]>CPM does not contain UV stabilizing additives. We recommend adding a UV stable topcoat.
Interested in learning more about Entropy Resins, click here to learn more about the benefits of using eco-friendly resins on your next DIY Surfboard project.
]]>
Casting epoxy is a popular technique among artists, artisan furniture builders, and jewelry makers. Here are some tips for getting the best results when casting epoxy.
There are many different materials you can use for making molds. Silicone, smooth plastics such as polyethylene, metal, and melamine coated MDF are some of the more common. Take time and care to completely seal the area you plan to fill. CCR is a thin and slow cure epoxy. Once a leak starts, it’s hard to stop.
For best results, use CCR Clear Casting Epoxy. Here’s how to calculate how much CCR Resin and CCF Fast or CCS Slow hardener you’ll need for your casting project.
1.5 Liter (3 pint) = 1420cm3
3 Liter (3 quart) = 2840cm3
6 Liter Kit (1.5 Gallon) = 5680cm3 [Best Seller]
12 Liter Kit (3 Gallon) = 11360cm3
To calculate required amount of epoxy for your project calculate the volume of your pour in cm3 and divide that by 5680, then round up. For example…
Pour Area: 21 cm x 183 cm x 6 cm = 23058cm3
Required Mixed Epoxy: 23058/5680 = (4) 1.5 Liter kits
Kit Size To Purchase: (2) 12 Liter
For best results:
Do not pour CCR/CCF (fast) in layer thickness more than 0.635 cm in a single pour.
Do not pour CCR/CCS (slow) in layer thickness more than 2.54 cm in a single pour.
**If you need to pour layer thicknesses larger than the above specifications, multiple pours are required. Be sure to let the initial layer cure sufficiently so that the two layers do not mix when pouring subsequent layers.
Generally, you can add coloring agents to the mixed epoxy up to 5% by volume with minimal effect on the cured epoxy’s strength. Always make test samples to check for desired color and opaqueness and for proper cure. Coloring additives don’t provide UV resistance to the cured epoxy. Limit their use to areas that won’t be exposed to sunlight, or add a UV protective coating such as a 2-part urethane varnish after the epoxy has cured.
You can add powdered pigments (tempera paint, colored tile grout, aniline dyes) and universal tinting pigment to the epoxy mixture to tint it any color. Acrylic paste pigments can also be used to tint the mixture, as long as their manufacturer has specified them for use with polyester or epoxy resin.
Using a vacuum degassing chamber is an effective way to remove entrapped air bubbles from Entropy CCR epoxy. Degassing is most effective when using CCR Resin and CCS Slow Hardener because of its long pot life. You should maintain a vacuum pressure of at least 25 inches of mercury (Hg) for 5- 10 minutes to remove air bubbles. The volume of epoxy used will have an effect on the epoxy’s overall exothermic heat, so time under vacuum may need to be modified for your epoxy casting. A variety of different size vacuum chambers are available online, we recommend using one with a clear lid to see the air bubbles rise to the top of the epoxy. Degassing will help remove extremely small bubbles that can be difficult to remove unless a vacuum chamber is used.
When using CCF for a large pour such as a bar top, and filling large voids, the depth of the pour should not exceed ½” deep. You can do smaller castings of 7 oz. or less in almost any shape and depth.
When using CCS for a large pour such as a bar top or when filling a large void, the depth of the pour should not exceed 1-inch deep. You can do smaller castings of 16 oz. and less in almost any shape and depth. When working with epoxy in a casting less than ⅛” thick or less than 7 oz. total volume, we recommend switching to CCF Fast Hardener for faster through-cure.
Limitations are based on 72ºF ambient temperature. Higher ambient temperature, unique mold shape (narrow and tall), and molds with good insulation factors can cause an exothermic reaction even within guidelines. Mildly excessive exothermic reactions can cause discoloration (yellowing) of casting.
After the initial cure (tack-free) is complete, post-cures can reduce the length of time to full cure or meet the requirement of a post-cure to reach full properties. There are two recommended post cures to achieve the epoxy’s full physical properties.
100ºF for 8 hours after 3 days at 77ºF
100ºF for 24 hours after 24 hours at 77ºF
See section on adding a UV stable topcoat in Basic Instructions.
Interested in learning more about Entropy Resins, click here to learn more about the benefits of using eco-friendly resins on your next DIY Surfboard project.
]]>Crystallization of epoxy resin formulations is not uncommon and in some cases is a reflection of the high-performance nature of these materials. Under the right conditions, any epoxy resin can crystalize. Crystallization may present itself initially as cloudiness but can proceed to suspended crystals, sedimentation, and eventually a solid mass, given enough time under the right environmental conditions.
Similar to other types of crystal growth (i.e. water freezing to become ice) the process of epoxy crystallization is a reversible phase change from liquid to solid. The tendency for an epoxy resin to crystallize depends on a number of factors. These include the purity of the resin, viscosity, additives, moisture, and the storage environment.
Crystallization is hard to predict and can happen randomly. While some resins are more prone to crystallization than others, it is not uncommon to have varying degrees of crystallization even within a given batch of resin. This is why it is important to understand how to minimize the risk of crystallization.
The most common factor contributing to crystallization is thermal cycling. Temperature cycles of as little as 20-30°C can significantly increase the possibility of crystal growth in epoxy resins. Minimizing temperature fluctuations in storage can dramatically improve long-term stability. Keeping resin containers sealed will also prevent moisture from potentially facilitating crystallization. Container spouts should be wiped clean of any remaining resin after each use. Pumps and spigots should be kept clean and free of dust and debris as these can initiate crystal growth in the resin container.
The ease of identifying whether or not a resin has crystallized depends on the resin in question. Resins that are formulated to be clear, low color and free of additives are by far the easiest to identify.
Resins such as CCR and CPM may first turn cloudy as the initial stages of crystallization begin. The CCR and CPM resins should be clear when viewed down through the container opening. Any difficulties seeing the bottom of the container may indicate that the early stages of crystallization have begun. These resins are also the easiest when identifying that the crystallization issue has been resolved as they will return to their clear appearance once the crystallization has been reversed.
Crystallization is a bit more difficult to identify in these resins. All three utilize additives to improve flow and air release and, in the case of BRT, enhance optical characteristics. These additives give CLR an inherent cloudy appearance and BRT a bluish/purple color that is typical of these formulations. Identifying crystallization in these resins is more difficult since the early stages of crystallization may be masked by the inherent cloudiness or color of the resin.
Identifying crystallization in CLR and BRT must be done by looking for other indicators such as floating crystals, sedimentation, or large masses of crystal growth. Look in containers for any sign of crystals settled to the bottom, suspended at the air/resin interface, or clinging to the container walls. You may also remove a sample of the resin from the container and look for any grainy appearance or inconsistency in how the product flows or pours.
As mentioned above, crystallization is a reversible process. The crystals can be reverted back to their original liquid state with heat. Heating the resin container to a temperature of approximately 125°F will melt the crystals. Blending the resin may also be necessary to remove all traces of crystals. This mixing will ensure even heating and provide a uniform resin blend.
The most efficient approach to heating resin is the use of a water bath. This provides the best heat transfer to the crystallized resin and reduces the risk of damaging the container. Where a water bath is not practical, such as in drum or tote sizes, other heating techniques may be necessary.
If other types of heating devices are used, such as drum band heaters, blend the resin continually, and carefully monitor the temperature.
Regardless of the heating method you choose, exposing the resin to temperatures above the recommended 125°F can lead to adverse effects such as discoloration.
The time required to eliminate all signs of crystallization will vary. Small containers will become crystal-free in a few hours. while larger masses such as drums or totes may require a few days due to slow heat transfer in larger masses.
It is important to ensure that all crystals are melted in the heating process. Any remaining crystals can act as a seed and promote re-crystallization.
]]>There is a special vocabulary used for epoxy formulation, chemistry, and processing. To learn more about epoxy, it’s a good idea to become familiar with those terms and their definitions. We’ve put together a glossary epoxy-related terminology as used throughout this website and on our Entropy Resins technical datasheets and product labels. While many of these words are no doubt familiar to you already, they can sometimes take on a different nuance when used specifically in reference to epoxy resins, hardeners, and processing.
Ambient Temperature: The temperature of the air or material in contact with the epoxy. Epoxy will be affected more by the surface temp than the air temperature.
Amine Blush: A waxy byproduct of the epoxy curing process that may appear on a recently cured epoxy surface under certain conditions. Amine blush is very easily removed with plain water and a scrubbing pad.
If amine blush appears, always remove it before applying any subsequent coatings as it can interfere with adhesion.
Colorants: Materials that change the color of the epoxy it is added to. Colorants can be divided into 2 sub-categories: Dyes and Pigments.
Compression Yield: The amount of stress required to cause plastic deformation. Plastic deformation is the permanent change in the shape or size of a solid body without fracture, resulting from sustained stress beyond the elastic limit. Cylinder shaped specimens are placed in a test machine that applies an increasing compressive force until plastic deformation weakens the sample. The highest force recorded prior to deformation is the Compression Yield Strength.
Cure time: The amount of time it takes for the epoxy to solidify to a state that is hard enough to sand to a fine dust and has the majority of its full properties. Cure times are given at 77°F. Increasing the temperature will reduce the cure time and conversely lowering the temperature will increase the cure time. The cure time can be divided into 3 sub-categories: open time, initial cure, and final cure.
Density: Mass divided by volume. We conduct these tests at 77°F (25°C) so that the density measurement in grams per cubic centimeter(g/cc) is also equal to the specific gravity.
Dyes: Liquid colorants. Dyes can be used to achieve nearly transparent to opaque transparencies. Since they are liquids they tend to disperse in the epoxy evenly with relatively little effort. The thicker the dye the more effort will be needed for even dispersion.
Epoxy: A thermoset plastic that is formed when mixing a resin and hardener at a given ratio. Epoxies generally have good moisture resistance and durability. Learn more about selecting epoxy resin and hardener.
Exothermic/Exotherm: A reaction that generates its own heat. Uncontrolled exotherm is when the generated heat is not dispersed, causing the epoxy to cure faster. When the epoxy cures faster it generates the heat at a higher rate therefore adding to the problem. Epoxy that undergoes uncontrolled exotherm can suffer adverse side effects. SeeUnderstanding Volume and Effect on Exothermic Reactionsfor more information.
Flexural Modulus: The deflection of a beam during the Flexural Strength test. In a manner similar to the calculation of Tensile Modulus, the deflection and stress are used to determine the Flexural Modulus.
Flexural Strength: The maximum amount of bending stress a sample can withstand before fracturing. The sample is simply supported at each end and an increasing load is applied in the center. The stress caused by bending is calculated and the amount that results in failure is recorded.
Fiberglass: A type of reinforcement commonly used with epoxy. Strands of glass can be woven together to create different types of fabric styles or chopped into short strands and bound together with a chemical binder. When working with epoxy we recommend working with woven glass as it has more strength and does not contain a chemical binder. Learn more about applying fiberglass.
Gel – Initial Cure: The cure phase when the epoxy begins to gel, or “kick-off.” The epoxy is no longer workable and will progress from a tacky, gel consistency to the firmness of hard rubber, which you will be able to dent with your thumbnail. The mixture will become tack free about midway through the initial cure phase. While it is still tacky (about like masking tape), a new application of epoxy will still form a primary bond with it without surface prep. However, this ability diminishes as the mixture loses its tack.
Hardener: One of the two components that reacts to form the solid epoxy. Hardeners differ from activators or catalysts because hardeners must be used at the recommended ratio. Altering the ratio of resin to hardener doesn’t change cure speed, it simply prevents the epoxy from ever curing. Learn more about selecting resin and hardener.
Hardness: A material’s resistance to deformation. This test is conducted with a Durometer utilizing the D scale. A Durometer forces a metal point into the material and provides a numerical reading which corresponds to the resistance at the point. The results of a hardness test are important for comparative purposes and determining the degree of cure.
Heat Deflection Temperature orHDT: The temperature at which the epoxy will deform under constant load. A sample is submerged in oil at a carefully calibrated temperature and subjected to 264 psi of bending stress in the center. The temperature of the oil is then gradually raised until the bar deflects .01 inches in the center. This temperature is considered to be the heat deflection temperature. HDT of Laminateis the temperature at which a typical 1/8″epoxy/fiberglass laminate will deform under constant load with the same test parameters as above. The HDT of a laminate is so much higher than a neat resin that it will not deform even at the test’s maximum temperature of 572°F (300°C).
Hot Coating: When the second layer of epoxy is thick enough to fill the weave of the fiberglass cloth and provide a smooth surface in one application. Hot coating is frequently done when building surfboards. Hot coating must be done on a horizontal surface for the thick coating of epoxy to not run off the surface. Learn more about hot coating.
Minimum Cure Temperature: This is the minimum temperature at which the epoxy will cure. If the ambient or surface temperature drops below this temperature the epoxy will pause its cure and will not begin to cure again until the temperature rises about 10°F above the minimum temperature. The additional heat is needed to activate the curing process; once the curing process is initiated again it can continue to cure until the temperature drops below the minimum cure temperature or until the epoxy reaches full cure. Note: moisture absorption and surface deformation can happen if the epoxy is below the minimum cure temperature for a long period of time. Unmixed components do notneedto be stored above the minimum cure temperature but it is recommended.
Mold Surface: This is the surface from which you want the epoxy to release. A smooth, clean, and well-sealed mold surface should give you a very nice epoxy surface that needs little to no work before prepping for a topcoat. Mold surfaces are especially important when casting. Learn more about mold surface preparation for casting projects.
Outgassing: When air trapped in a substrate, such as wood, leaves the substrate as it is warmed. This can result in bubbles appearing in an epoxy coating or casting. Learn more about outgassing in Bubble-Free Coating & Casting.
Open Time: The portion of the cure time, after mixing, that the resin/hardener mixture remains a liquid and is workable and suitable for the application.
Pigments: Solid colorants. Sometimes the solids will be suspended in a liquid carrier. Since pigments are solids they will typically give more opaque transparencies but at low loadings, they can be translucent. Pigments may take more effort to evenly disperse in epoxy and can settle out of the epoxy if the open time is long enough.
Primary/Chemical Bond: A bond that relies on the ability of the new epoxy application to react with the previous application of epoxy. This allows all the layers of adhesive to cure together and fuse into a single layer, chemically speaking. Therefore, epoxy applied over partially cured epoxy will chemically bond with it and is considered a primary bond where no surface prep is needed. Learn more about bonding types in Basic Instructions.
Pot Life: The amount of time a mixture of resin and hardener has a workable viscosity while in the mixing container. Pot life is determined using150 gram and 500-gram samples in a standardized container at 72°F (22°C),77°F (25°C) and 85°F (29°C). Both mass and ambient temperature affect the rate at which an epoxy system will cure. Pot life should be used only for comparative purposes when evaluating an epoxy system’s cure time. Working Time is the amount of time the viscosity of the epoxy remains low enough to be processed. It is determined using a Gel Timer which employs a spindle traveling through a 1/8″ thick volume of liquid epoxy. Working time is the amount of time the spindle can travel through the epoxy without leaving an indent in the curing epoxy.
Reinforcement Fibers: Materials that can be used in conjunction with epoxy to make a part strong, durable, and light. The most common types of reinforcement fibers. Learn more about reinforcement fibers in Applying Fiberglass.
Resin: One of the 2 components that gets combined to form solid epoxy. The resin component will have the epoxide backbone that will react with the hardener to polymerize and make the solid epoxy thermoset plastic. Learn more about selecting resin and hardener.
Secondary/Mechanical Bond: Secondary bonding relies on mechanical, rather than chemical, bonding of an adhesive to a material or cured epoxy surface. The adhesive must “key” into pores or scratches on the surface. Learn more about bonding types in Basic Instructions.
Solid – Final Cure: The epoxy mixture has cured to a solid-state and can be dry sanded. You will no longer be able to dent it with your thumbnail. At this point, the epoxy has reached most of its ultimate strength and clamps can be removed.
Solvent: A substance that can dissolve another substance.
Stringer (surfboard): A thin strip of wood that runs from nose to tail down the center of a foam blank, adding rigidity to the surfboard.
Tack-Free Time: The time it takes until an epoxy surface is no longer sticky and cannot pick up dirt and debris. Learn more about tack-free time in Hot Coating Surfboards.
Technical Datasheet/TDS: A document describing the properties of a raw material. In the case of epoxies, TDS may also include cured properties. Entropy Resins TDS can be found on product pages on the PDFs tab.
Tensile Elongation: Also referred to as strain, Tensile Elongation indicates how much the material can “stretch” before it fails. Dog bone shaped samples are placed in a test machine that applies an increasing tensile force until failure. The change in sample length is measured with an extensometer. The point at which the sample fails is the Tensile Elongation.
Tensile Modulus: Describes the amount of elongation (strain) that results from a specific amount of stress. This property is essentially the stiffness of the material. During the Tensile Strength test, elongation is measured and recorded at the corresponding stress before the material yields. The stress divided by the strain, in the elastic region, equals the modulus or the slope of the stress/strain curve.
Tensile Strength: The stress that is required to fracture the epoxy and cause a failure. Dog bone-shaped specimens are placed in a test machine that applies an increasing tensile force until failure. The highest stress recorded prior to failure is the Tensile Strength.
Tg DSC Ulitmate: The highest Tg value that can be attained for a particular epoxy system. In order to achieve this temperature resistance in an application, the epoxy must be post-cured at a pre-defined elevated temperature for a specific amount of time. See the Technical Data Sheet for a specific resin/hardener combination, or contact our Technical Department, 888-377-6738.
Viscosity: A fluid’s resistance to a shear force and can be thought of as how easily a fluid flows. A Rotational Viscometer is used to measure viscosity. A spindle rotates in the epoxy to measure its resistance. A thicker fluid will give the spindle more resistance, indicating a higher viscosity. Since temperature will affect the viscosity, we provide data points at different temperatures as well as graphs that provide viscosity data over a wide range of temperatures. The manufacturing process and processing temperature are important considerations when determining the required mixed epoxy viscosity. Infusion processes often require a very low viscosity to enable good flow whereas a wet layup may require a higher viscosity that allows thorough fabric wet out yet prevents drain out.
]]>$2 from every order will be donated to a COVID Charity to help fight this pandemic. You can read more about our COVID charity donations here.
$3 from every order will be donated to grassroots environmental organizations dedicated to creating a sustainable future for our planet.
One Tree Planted: Reforestation in Ontario will greatly benefit communities, biodiversity, and the environment. Planting trees will restore critical watersheds, rebuild important wildlife habitats, and will ultimately combat climate change!
Read more about this Foundation here:
onetreeplanted.org/collections/canada/products/ontario
British Columbia is known for its abundant forests, rugged Pacific coastline, mountains, plateaus, and pristine lakes and rivers. In recent years, visitors have noticed a difference in B.C.'s trees.
Read more about this Foundation here:
onetreeplanted.org/collections/canada/products/british-columbia
Our mission is the protection and enjoyment of the world’s ocean, waves and beaches, for all people, through a powerful activist network.
Read more about this Foundation here:
pacificrim.surfrider.org
Surfrider Foundation Vancouver Island (SFVI) is a grassroots non-profit coastal protection organization with a MISSION that is dedicated to the protection and enjoyment of our oceans, waves and beaches, for all people, through a powerful activist network. SFVI has been operating in Victoria, British Columbia since its establishment in 2006.
Read more about this Foundation here:
vancouverisland.surfrider.org
The Surfrider Foundation is dedicated to the protection and enjoyment of the world’s ocean, waves and beaches, for all people, through a powerful activist network.
We are the Vancouver Chapter of the Surfrider Foundation. We are an entirely volunteer-run team of everyday citizens who host monthly events to educate and engage the Vancouver community in protecting our urban coastline.
Read more about this Foundation here:
vancouverbc.surfrider.org
The Surfrider Foundation is dedicated to the protection and enjoyment of the world’s ocean, waves and beaches, for all people, through a powerful activist network.
Read more about this Foundation here:
surfrider.org
Our oceans are in trouble, but it’s not too late for us to save them. One of the best ways to do this is to ensure our future generations are armed with the knowledge and skills they need to become environmental champions. Sea Smart is a charity whose programs educate and empower youth, educators, businesses, and communities to join our mission and keep both our oceans, and our home on planet earth, alive.
Read more about this Foundation here:
seasmartschool.com
Fresh Roots is a non-profit organization working with school communities towards Good Food For All: everyone deserves access to healthy food, land, and community. We work towards this vision by cultivating engaging gardens and programs that catalyze healthy eating, ecological stewardship, and community celebration.
Read more about this Foundation here:
freshroots.ca
The greatest power to enact change lies in each and every single one of us. Join us in building a resilient ocean – for ourselves and the generations to come.
Every donation, no matter the size, will support a range of conservation activities aimed at protecting our ocean and the animals that call it home.
Read more about this Foundation here:
ocean.org/ways-to-give/
The Vancouver Aquarium is temporarily closed, but animal care never stops. Our dedicated team of experts provide 24/7 world-class care for our over 70,000 animals. Your tax-receiptable donation will make a difference now more than ever.
Thank you so much for your support.
Read more about this Foundation here:
vanaqua.org
Finding solutions to what threatens the most vulnerable species in the Georgia Strait.
Read more about this Foundation here:
georgiastrait.org
The Plastic Oceans Initiative: To Eradicate Single-Use Plastic And Save The Ocean From Its Fast Approaching Demise
Read more about this Foundation here:
plasticoceans.ca
$2 from every order will be donated to a COVID Charity to help fight this pandemic. You can read more about our COVID charity donations here.
$3 from every order will be donated to grassroots environmental organizations dedicated to creating a sustainable future for our planet.
Possible Worlds Foundation Inc assists vulnerable children at risk of abuse or abandonment by providing safe homes & essential support during COVID-19. $50 will help provide a safe home for a child in need.
Read more about this Foundation here:
https://www.possibleworlds.ca/donatetoday
COVID-19 has had a devastating impact on the forcibly displaced. While there have been over 49,000 confirmed case among forcibly displaced people as of February 2021.
Read more about this Foundation here:
https://www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/unhcr/campaign/covid-19/
Money raised will enable the Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement to respond to humanitarian needs. The support could include preparedness, immediate and ongoing relief efforts, long-term recovery, resiliency, and other critical humanitarian activities as needs arise.
Read more about this Foundation here:
https://www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/the-canadian-red-cross-society/campaign/ukraine-humanitarian-crisis-appeal/
The Canadian Red Cross is working to get help to people in and around affected areas as quickly as possible and provide humanitarian assistance for new needs as they arise. Money raised will enable the Red Cross to carry out relief, recovery, resiliency and risk reduction activities in and beyond the region at the individual and community levels.
Read more about this Foundation here:
https://donate.redcross.ca/page/94172/donate/1?utm_source=Instagram&utm_medium=Social&utm_campaign=NO-BCfloods
We've been providing help and support to people in crisis even when departments in health systems have been closed or operating on much-reduced capacity. Your Life Counts, as a core project of H.U.G., has been there when needed the most. And we're still there. For people who need us. People you may know.
Read more about this Foundation here:
https://www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/your-life-counts/campaign/1-ylc-covid-19-emergency-fund/
Your donation will support emergency Hospital + Staff needs, including equipment and wellness items and activities for staff. Your donation will also support the health and well being of women and families disproportionately impacted by COVID-19, including emergency accommodation, food and wellness supports.
Read more about this Foundation here:
canadahelps.org/en/charities/bc-womens-health-foundation/campaign/bc-womens-health-foundation-covid-19-response-funds/
One of the many ways Unicef is helping is by ensure children, pregnant and lactating women, and vulnerable communities who are impacted by the outbreak are supported with adequate health care.
Read more about this Foundation here:
canadahelps.org/en/charities/canadian-unicef-committee/campaign/global-coronavirus-covid-19-outbreak-response/
BC’s world-leading research teams are joining forces to combat COVID-19. Research is the key to curb the current threat, understand the long-term implications and protect us from future risks. You can help raise funds for BC’s experts to detect, neutralize and combat COVID-19.
Read more about this Foundation here:
my.charitableimpact.com/groups/bc-covid-19-combat-collective
The COVID-19Response Fund will be used to support the greatest needs created by the current crisis. These needs continue to evolve as the dedicated people of PHC continue to respond to emerging needs. These needs may include support for the following:
Read more about this Foundation here:
https://www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/st-pauls-foundation/campaign/covid19-response-fund/
Vancouver Coastal Health (VCH) is experiencing a surge in services – including testing for and treating COVID-19. The team is strategically managing the needs of patients while remaining vigilant about what is likely to come. They are proactively preparing to operate at their highest capacity.
This fund is designed to be flexible and nimble to allow our VCH partners to rapidly deploy funding to support the thousands of health care workers providing world-class care across our facilities and community.
Read more about this Foundation here:
https://www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/vgh-ubc-hospital-foundation/campaign/covid-19-response/
Emergency Response Fund: Rapid Response to COVID-19, and future public health emergencies. We are calling on British Columbians to help us save lives and prevent the spread of the virus in BC. Donate to our Emergency Response Fund to support public health experts at the BC Centre for Disease Control to help more people, faster. We urgently need your help in order to protect our population today.
Read more about this Foundation here:
https://www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/_BCCDC_Foundation/campaign/rapid-response-to-coronavirus-in-bc/
Now more than ever, Queensway Carleton Hospital needs you. Your thoughtful contributions enable us to treat our patients with the best care — during natural disasters, accidents, acute and long-term illnesses and now for the COVID-19 virus. Your support will ensure our healthcare teams continue to have the equipment and tools they need to care for you, your family, friends, neighbours and our entire community, should you need us.
Read more about this Foundation here:
www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/queensway-carleton-hospital-foundation/campaign/covid-19-pandemic-response/
Your donations help patients beat the odds every day. With your help, TB Vets assists everyone from newborns with specialized breathing equipment to advanced life support for trauma patients. Your generosity helps us save lives right here in BC!.
Read more about this Foundation here:
www.tbvets.org/donate/
Community Food Centres Canada (CFCC) has launched a $3-million Good Food Access Fund to provide emergency relief during this time of national crisis to our most vulnerable neighbours, including children, single parents, Indigenous people, seniors, and those on disability supports.rs.
Read more about this Foundation here:
tinyurl.com/y8p4sezv
In listening to many community partners over the past few weeks across Northern Ontario, Northern Manitoba, and remote parts of British Columbia, we heard common realities and shared concerns. Remote communities are facing challenges such as the increased vulnerability of supply lines and food security, risks of increased social isolation and marginalization on an existing mental health crisis, and further disruption to reviving legal orders, culture, language revitalization,and connection to lands and waters.
Anxiety Canada™ is a leader in developing online, self-help, and evidence-based resources on anxiety and anxiety disorders and promotes understanding about anxiety and anxiety disorders through general information sessions, professional seminars and workshops. We are producing a series of live Town Halls, and articles on coping with COVID-19 inspired anxiety.
Read more about this Foundation here:
tinyurl.com/yd2h66so
As Canada’s only 24/7, bilingual, national help line, Kids Help Phone is receiving exponential volumes referred to us from government and other services. We may be the only place for young people to turn for mental health support during this unprecedented time.
Read more about this Foundation here:
tinyurl.com/yanl44vx
Food Banks Canada is a launching a special of $150M appeal to help ensure that food banks can continue their critical work. You can help make sure that food banks are there for our neighbours now and when the pandemic is over.
Read more about this Foundation here:
tinyurl.com/yd6m5fdj
Vancouver Coastal Health (VCH) is experiencing a surge in services – including testing for and treating COVID-19. The team is strategically managing the needs of patients while remaining vigilant about what is likely to come. They are proactively preparing to operate at their highest capacity.
This fund is designed to be flexible and nimble to allow our VCH partners to rapidly deploy funding to support the thousands of health care workers providing world-class care across our facilities and community.
Read more about this Foundation here:
tinyurl.com/t4zklgz
Your support is urgently needed to help ensure the safety of Canadians and vulnerable people around the world. This month only, thanks to Economical Insurance, every dollar donated by Canadians will be worth triple.
Read more about this Foundation here:
tinyurl.com/wj4pt7a
Donating to the Emergency Response Fund supports public health experts at the BC Centre for Disease Control to help more people, faster. They urgently need our help in order to protect our population today.
Read more about this Foundation here:
www.canadahelps.org/en/charities/_BCCDC_Foundation/campaign/rapid-response-to-coronavirus-in-bc/
This blog post is being updated as we add charities
]]>Google the make and model of your machine or refer to the manual to find out that important information.
Our best sellers are the Red Medium Cloth Flexpad both the 8 inch and 6 Inch Flexpad.
This foam density allows for multiple speeds. Both are the best workhorse to start with.
Use our special 4 1/2" x 11" Indasa sandpaper or 4.5"x11" Mirka Block Sandscreen. They can be used on both blocks.
The (SB11) is a versatile shaping tool built and designed specifically for the board shaping industry. The balsa wood design makes it lighter and easier to sand without overworking your hand, wrist, elbow and/or shoulder.
Following the suggested RPM levels will increase the performance of the pad while decreasing the chance of premature wear and tear. We want your experience using Flexpad Sanding Products to be great!
The most efficient way to remove the sandpaper is to pull it off while the pad is still warm from sanding. The longer it sits the harder it can be to remove. Don't try to pull you paper off cold because it can stick and tear. You will also be applying unnecessary pull against the pad face especially when there is a large glue build up.
Fast Tack Sandpaper Adhesive
3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive
3M Feathering Disc Adhesive Type 2
Camie 300 General Purpose Adhesive
Tacky Disc Adhesive (Caution: Because of the high build and stick properties of Tacky, long term use could shorten the life of your pad. You have to make sure you pull the paper off when the pad and the glue are warm. Failure to do this could damage the face of the pad, especially on the softer pads).
All written content in this post is credited to Flexplad
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